Sunday, August 05, 2007

Summer is Moving On

August has run in upon us before we are ready. I am sure that the Fourth of July was just a couple of days ago. When I look at my calendar for August, it will probably be flying by just as fast as July did.

A couple days ago I got an e-mail from an old employee. He had just completed a canoe trip down the Granite River. On Clove Lake, he spotted a pair of Trumpeter Swans with a cygnet or young one. Kent says the cygnet cannot fly for a while after it is born. So his thought was that the pair of swans will be staying on Clove for a bit. If you are planning a canoe trip through that area, be sure to look for them. Also remember to stay plenty far away so they do not feel harassed.

Animals are popping out all over. There is a wet area on the way up to Seagull that has regularly had a momma moose and two calves. Bruce and I have been up to Chik-Wauk several times this past week. Twice while coming back we have spotted a wolf. One was between the Blankenburg gravel pit and Seagull and the other was between Cross River and the North Gunflint Lake Road. Each animal was not startled by the car and did not run off. I think they were in no rush because they were just as hot as we were. At any rate, both were magnificent animals.

Eva’s mother, Nancy, is visiting. We went blueberry picking with her one morning. Nancy and I make a good contrast to Bruce. We pick cleanly and his bucket is a mess. Of course, he also gets twice as many berries as we do. We got a enough to freeze a bag for winter and to make 14 jars of blueberry lemon jam. Not a bad morning’s work.

My basil in the garden has been particularly good. This week I supplied the lodge and still had lots left. So I spent a little time making pesto. My friend, Bev, gave me this recipe. The worst part about it is cleaning the basil. Otherwise you just dump everything into the food processor. I package it in one cup portions and freeze it for winter. Now there are five dinners worth in the freezer.

Yesterday we decided to go lake trout fishing with Nancy. For several weeks the guides have had excellent luck on North Lake. Lately the water level going down the rapids between Little North and Little Gunflint has been too low for the guides to drag their boats up. We took one of the smallest boats the lodge has. Bruce was able to drag the boat up into Little North.

The lake was beautiful. We saw lots of seagulls and loons. But, more importantly, the beeper on the fish finder kept going off as it spotted fish beneath us. After trying a couple of spots with no luck, we found the honey hole. Within an hour we had our limit of nice size fish and had thrown a few back in. That was enough for us.

We sat and drifted, ate our sandwiches and generally enjoyed being on the lake. There was one other boat and we saw one group of 4 canoes going toward the South Lake portage. There was enough breeze so that we didn’t get too hot. Of course, I got a little too much sun but it was no big deal. As you might guess, fresh lake trout, garden green beans, and fresh salad from the garden make a great dinner.

Last week we had a team from the International Boundary Commission stop by to rent a boat for a bit. They were surveying all the boundary markers in the area. Going through the narrows from Gunflint to Magnetic, you may have noticed one of these markers. They are embedded in rocks, square-shaped and topped with a pyramid shape. On the sides they have an identification number and say “U. S. Canada International Boundary” or something close to that. These are not the actually boundary but they are points from which star sightings were taken to establish the boundary in the middle of the lake. As we went down the lake, I noticed this team had painted all the markers white. I saw more markers than every before.

There is an interesting story about the establishing of the international boundary in the area. In addition to marking the border, the team cataloged the elevation of each lake in relationship to sea level. These elevations are still found on some of the canoe maps of the area. By looking at them, you can tell if your portage is going to be generally uphill, downhill or level.

At any rate they had trouble on Gunflint Lake. It seems that they kept getting different water elevations on the lake. Eventually, they figured out that the northwest wind pushes enough water to the eastern end of the lake, that the eastern end is higher than the western end. We saw this same thing happen during the 1999 Blowdown when the eastern end was several feet deeper than the western end. For the surveyors, the solution was to measure the lake in the winter when the ice made the lake the same elevation all over.

It is Fisherman’s Picnic weekend in Grand Marais. Bruce and I are off to town. We walk in front of the Red Cross vehicle and throw candy to people watching the parade. It is dumb but kinda of fun. Those little kids get such a smile on their faces when you throw them candy. In fact every one enjoys getting a little candy.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Driving Home

Bruce and I have just returned from taking Grandson Zach back to Missouri. It was a long drive but worth every mile just to get him up here for a bit. The same was true when we returned Granddaughter Emma and her friend.

On the way back we planned our menu for an upcoming canoe trip. Last year we took a 10-day trip with our friends, Tom and Melissa, from Tucker Lake. This year we will be taken an 8-day trip with them into the Quetico. It is always fun to just get away for a bit.

We drove up the Trail during sunset which lasted the entire trip home. The beginning of this show was seeing an airplane high in the sky with the sun reflecting off it. It was probably a flight from Minneapolis taking the polar route to Europe. We have flown over Gunflint Lake several times on return flights from Europe along this same route.

After the plane flew out of sight, the main show continued. There were a few winding clouds in the sky that quickly caught our eyes. First they were yellow with some grays. Then they turned to peach. On the lower Trail the road and trees make it impossible to view the clouds all the time. Each time they came into view it was another section and another color. By the time we got to Poplar Lake the pinks and magentas were contrasting with grays in the clouds. Bruce and I would talk about exactly what color the clouds were. Before we could agree, they had changed color before our eyes. At the top of the Gunflint Hill, all the clouds were gray but the sky above them was still lit up. What a great way to drive home.

It must have been warm while we were gone. The house was hot and muggy. We quickly opened all the windows and turned the fans on. In just a few minutes the cool night air filled the house. Even on the hottest days, it always seems to cool off at night. What a blessing!

There are still some fire stories around. Bruce heard this one from Don up at Voyageur Canoe Outfitters. It seems that at some point Don was manning a fire truck on the main Gunflint Trail. They were slowly working their way fighting a fire alongside the road. Don noticed a red fox came to sit right next to the fire truck. Pretty soon the fox was joined by a rabbit. Both the predator and the prey ignored each other. They moved with the truck as if sensing that it was safe for them. Don got caught up again in his job and lost sight of them. It is interesting how emergencies change relationships.

It looks like another hot day today. Bruce and I are going up to Chik-Wauk Lodge for a planning session for the museum. Slowly the museum plans are starting to take shape. We plan on opening in June of 2010 but time seems to be flying by. Even now we are all beginning to feel the pressure of opening.

Raspberries and blueberries are still ripe all over. Bruce went out and picked several cups of raspberries just around the house while I was making breakfast. We need to get more blueberries since they go into both jam and pancakes. My back hurts just thinking about bending over for them. However, in January the blueberry pancakes will taste mighty good.

A quick look at the newspaper before bed told me that the canoe races raised just over $18,000 for the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department. That is the most we have ever raised and the department deserves every penny of it. Now it is time for everyone on the Trail to clear up the debris and downfalls around their homes. We can’t expect the fire department to protect us if we don’t protect ourselves first. Meanwhile, don’t forget to personally thank people in the fire department when you see them.

Time to move on to other projects. I’ll be back in touch soon.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

July Days

There is no doubt that July is here. Our last few days have been calm, hot, and humid. The dock has been a busy place as many find playing in the water just wonderful. The kayaks have been out everyday with both kids and adults in them.

Grandson Zach is here now so we have been busy with him. That means horseback riding, berry picking and fishing. It also means that he gets to visit all his friends on the Trail. He and the Baker Boys have spent lots of time playing. Today he goes up to play with the Prom children. When night time comes, Zach is ready for bed. In fact last night he and Grandpa each caught a few winks before dinner.

With the hot weather, the air management in our home keeps things about 10-15 degrees cooler that outside. Every night we open all the windows. By 7:00 a.m. they are closed again and the fans are turned on. Even though we have no air conditioning, we do have lots and lots of insulation (for winter) and that helps keep things cool in the summer. Going outside, however, is still hot.

Eva and I like to go down to the lake right in front of our house. It is nicely shaded. We drag our feet in the water. Tucker is along and we throw a tennis ball in the water for him to retrieve. Yesterday Rudy was along and the two of them swam out after the ball. Then Zach came down. We pushed out a small kayak. Pretty soon we had Zach, kayak, dogs, and ball all playing in the water. Meanwhile Eva and I sat in the shade. All we needs was some cold beer or frozen Margaritas.

Berry picking is in full swing. Yesterday I made 19 jars of raspberry jam. One day I made 46 jars of jam. Bruce is out picking as I type this. I’ll be busy this afternoon making jam again. It seems like lots of work now but in January the jam is wonderful. I also give it away for Christmas presents or when we stay at someone’s home.

With all this hot weather, the fishing has held up amazingly well. This morning Bruce was down at the lodge talking to one of the guides. He and his party caught 80 lake trout yesterday. I think we need to go out. While in the Cities recently, I visited the Penzey’s Spice store on Grand Avenue in St. Paul. They have a blend of spices called Fox Point that I want to try on lake trout. The blend is wonderful on baked salmon and should be equally good on baked lake trout. Of course, the fish has to be fresh. We are such snobs about our fish.

The canoe races last week were a great success. I know that a new record was set for the amount of money raised but don’t have the exact figure. In spite of three showers, everyone had a good time. We sold out every one of the general raffle tickets and almost all of the canoe raffle tickets. There was also a silent auction that raised money. Food was sold down to the last hot dog and sloppy Joe. Lots of people contribute to making this a very successful event.

My garden is in full swing. Each day I bring the lodge a 2.5 gal bag of fresh lettuce for their salads. This is mixed with greens that we buy. In addition we are regularly harvesting fresh herbs for the lodge. Bruce picked our first bunch of garlic. I can smell garlic throughout the kitchen just from that one bunch.

Tonight we go over to a neighbor’s on Tucker Lake. Throughout the year several couples from Gunflint, Loon, and Tucker Lakes get together on Wednesday nights for dinner. Sometimes it’s at Trail Center, sometimes at Gunflint, and sometimes at one of our homes. During the warm summer months we like to go to Tom and Melissa’s. They have a very large screened in porch that can seat about 20 people for dinner. Of course, it’s a potluck and the food is wonderful. Tonight Bruce is doing BBQ’ed ribs and Fred is doing a brisket. I can smell the hickory smoke from the smoker whenever I walk outside. With all the good cooks in our group, forget your diet when you go to our potlucks.

One day last winter we decided to do just appetizers and desserts. The problem was that everyone brought one of each. You cannot imagine how much food we had. Bruce and I were so full driving home that we just groaned all the way.

If we have dinner at someone’s home, we often play card games or dominos. The women always are against the men. No one is too intent on the rules. In fact usually Fred or Melissa will have to remind us of a “little known rule” when they want to try something. Recently Zach taught me a “little known rule” that says that the first person a play in any game is the youngest. This rule works pretty well for him in our house.

So that is the social scene around Gunflint Lake right now. Hope your life is a pleasurable as ours is.

Around the Lodge


In an earlier post, Sue mentioned how prevalent the strawberries were. Now, the strawberries have faded off and made way for new berries: raspberries and blueberries. There are raspberries everywhere. I went picking for only about an hour the other day, and filled the Tupperware I’d brought. I hardly even had to go back into the woods; they line the roads and trails all over the property. If you’re camping, it’s blueberry pancakes in the morning. If you’re at the lodge, it’s ice cream with wild raspberries. Delicious.


One of the wildflowers blooming right now is fireweed. It is a long stalk of purple flowers that blooms from the bottom up. It’s called fireweed because it does really well in distressed areas, and is often one of the first plants to come up after a fire. I was showing this plant to a guest on a wildflower hike, when she told me about how the fireweed has always been known as a countdown to the end of summer. The bottom of the flower stalk begins to bloom in the beginning of the summer, then the blooms slowly move up the stalk as summer progresses. Seed pods form as new blooms open. I thought that this was a really cool way to naturally tell time, and wanted to pass it on. Right now, I would say that most of the fireweed blooms are about halfway up the stalk, or maybe a little more.

Ever since I had help from Dennis Todd, Fishin’ Fun has been a great success. We haven’t been skunked once yet, and I think that just about every kid that’s come has caught a fish. It’s been a great time. The kids caught a bunch of small mouth bass. They’re fighters. Twice we had the fish up to the boat when the line broke and it got away.

One other interesting event here at the lodge is the mayfly hatch. It happened just a couple weeks ago. Mayflies hatch in large quantities all at once. After living up to seven years in the water, they come out of the water and emerge as adults, living in this stage for only one day. As adults, they have transparent, oval shaped wings, and when they fly it is slightly haphazard but pretty. In the adult stage they do not even have mouths, as their purpose is solely to mate and lay eggs before they die. Mayflies have a funny life, as they are ugly bottom dwellers for so long before they emerge into something pretty, looking almost like a child ballerina, before they die.
Picture Info: (from top to bottom) The lodge, and new patio, at sunset; Justin and Kelly with their small mouth bass (Jacey and Jordan also caught fish); and a mayfly clinging to the dock.

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Hello, Ralph and Bea!

This blog is for Ralph and Bea Griffis in Harlingen, Texas. Ralph called us just before dinner to complain that I wasn’t writing the blog frequently enough. So read on Ralph and Bea. See how I tell your story.

Ralph and Bea were the last private owners of Chik-Wauk Lodge on Saganaga Lake. They bought in 1958 and operated the business until 1980. At that time they sold to the Federal government. After selling they were able to summer at the lodge until about 5 years ago.

The Kerfoots have a long relationship with Ralph and Bea. As a young resort owner, Bea taught me how to make corduroy bedspreads for all our cabins. Bolts and bolts of corduroy went through my sewing machine and ended up on cabin beds. They were a huge improvement over the chenille ones that had been used previously.

In late August of 1975 Bruce flew some guests up to a remote lake in Canada for a day’s fishing. They didn’t come home. The next morning Ralph took his plane up and found them for us. Ralph’s plane was too big to land on the lake, but he did tell me that he thought he saw Bruce by a campfire. Eventually the U. S. Forest Service flew in to rescue Bruce and his two guests. The sequel to this story is that Lee was born one week later.

Today Ralph and Bruce were talking about the Chik-Wauk Museum and Nature Center which the Gunflint Trail Historical Society is building in the old Chik-Wauk main lodge building. Word has just been received that the building as been accepted on the National Register of Historic Places. It is a big step as the society works on raising the money for the museum. It was also a big deal for Ralph and Bea who have supported us throughout the process.

Last fall Bruce and I drove down to Harlingen to see Ralph and Bea. Along with lots of Texas hospitality, they loaded us up with artifacts for the museum. We took down an empty fifteen-passenger van with no seats and came back loaded to the gills. Some of our treasures included 2 snowshoe chairs made by Tempest Powell Benson, an original painting by Howard Sivertsen, four place setting of Chik-Wauk china, a table standing on a large burl, 4 hand made chairs, an original candle wall sconce from the lodge, etc. The list goes on and on. Eventually most of these things will be displayed in the museum.

More important (and more fun) than all these things was getting to listen to Ralph and Bea tell us some stories. We started up the video camera and listened and listened. These were stories from two people who obviously loved their life on Saganaga Lake. We heard about old employees and guests. We heard stories of making Hamm’s Beer commercials with Sasha, a real live brown bear. We heard about all the funny happenings to people who run resorts. It was wonderful.

But Ralph won’t like it if all I did was talk about he and Bea in this blog. So I better tell you a few things that are going on in the neighborhood. Fishing has been really good lately – both lake trout and walleye. All the guides have been out and bringing in good catches of fish. Last night Bruce and I joined the Feeneys and another couple for a fresh walleye dinner that would not end. Patty cooked them to perfection and we ate until I thought I would burst. Of course, I saved a little room for Melissa’s chocolate pie.

At lunch today Bruce and I had our first small dish of raspberries. I looked around the house and came up with enough for two small dishes after picking for about 10 minutes. Every one of you reading this should be green with envy. There are lots more raspberries coming so get up here and pick your own.

Lee and Eva took Sybil, a visiting friend, out looking for blueberries. They came back with enough to make a pie. On Tuesday they are all coming over for dinner and we are going to have homemade blueberry pie. Who could ask for anything more?

Bruce and I are leaving for a couple days. Granddaughter Emma and her friend went home Thursday. It is time for another grandchild to visit. We are driving down to Clear Lake, Iowa, to pick up Zach for his time with us. In the afternoon before the canoe races start on Wednesday, Zach will have his lemonade stand set up. Last year he raised about $40 for the fire department. It is a great way for a child to learn to give back to the community.

On Wednesday the canoe races will be held here at Gunflint starting at 4:00. A new activity this year will be the silent auction. So many wonderful gifts have been donated that the committee decided to put some of them in a silent auction. Whether you buy raffle tickets or participate in the silent auction, there will be lots of gifts to tempt you. If you can’t come, just pray for warm weather and sunshine.

That's what is going on along the Gunflint Trail. Summer is passing quickly but we are enjoying every minute of it.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

It’s a Great Day for the Ducks

7/10/7
It seems like just about every time Deb, John or I are completely booked for a boat activity it rains like this. And as we look at the radar, there are few signs of it stopping. It looks like it will only get worse before it stops (whenever that will be). Deb was supposed to do her Fire and Ice Kayak Paddle, using our brand new kayaks, and I was supposed to do the Kid’s Only Fishin’ Fun, which the very rightfully famous fishing guide, Dennis Todd, helped me out with last night. I was all set up so those kids could get a great catch. Dennis has been up here fishing for some twenty odd years, and it is well known that he knows the area like the back of his hand. His secrets seem pretty well guarded. He runs a fishing seminar every Monday night at seven in the Conference Center, and I will vouch that it is immensely helpful, not to mention entirely free. I went last night. I’m really glad I went, and the other two guests that came were, too. You can bet that as soon as those kids and I can get a boat out, you’ll see pictures.
Really, though, none of us can complain about the rain. We needed it pretty badly. I guess the only thing to do is give in, drink coffee, and sit by the fire. I can’t say that sounds all too bad. And, of course, the ducks are loving it. They toss and spin in the waves near the shore, or they huddle up on the dock.

One more thing—Happy Birthday! to Jason Hughes, who’s a bartender and server here at the lodge. (7/11!)

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Summer Odds and Ends

The Fourth of July has come and gone. Suddenly summer is upon us. I don’t know where they came from but the Trail seems loaded with people. Every time I see the naturalists out, they have a large group of people following them. Guides are booked every day. The horseback riding is so busy that each horse has two scheduled days off each week.

Bruce has been out picking wild strawberries. So far I have made 8 jars of wild strawberry jam, 8 jars of domestic/strawberry jam and 8 jars of peach jam. No, we don’t grow peaches up here but Sam’s Club had some really nice ones. Bruce tells me he has to pick 2 more cups of wild strawberries for another batch. That doesn’t seem like much when I write it, but these little things are tiny and picked on hands and knees.

We are into the grandchildren’s visiting cycle. Tanner, at sixteen, works the dock fulltime for Uncle Lee. He and his friend, Keean, both live in a dorm at the lodge. It is their first stab at independence. They have a car but it is kept at our house and only used with permission. They are experimenting with cooking their own meals with Aunt Eva and Grandma as backup. I think it is a great summer for them and a real growing period.

Last week we picked up Emma and a friend in Duluth. They are with us for one week. Two 11-year-old girls certainly change the routine in a house. We have lots more giggles. The TV is on more than usually. Each day has time at the lodge dock just to see who is around. Yesterday the three of us went horseback riding. The night before we played dominoes. They are both fun girls to have around and the week is going quickly.

On the 16th Zach comes for a week. He wanted to be here during canoe races. One of the things he does is to run a lemonade stand to collect his share of money for the Volunteer Fire Department. A cute little 7-year old makes a lot more on lemonade than his grandmother would make.

It is time for another commercial about the canoe races. For almost 30 years these races have benefited the first Gunflint Trail Rescue Squad(ambulance) and then the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department (fire and ambulance). The members of these groups have put in lots of time to learn firefighting, to become EMT's and to teach the community about Firewise safety around their homes.

With the Ham Lake Fire this spring, we all saw the results of years of planning and training. Not every building was saved but lots were as these men and women dropped everything in their lives to work on this fire. Such intensive work means that equipment suffered and needs repairs and replacement. The canoe races offer a chance for the community to say “Thanks” by making sure there is enough money to have the best equipment.

The races will be held at Gunflint Lodge on July 18th. You can participate in several ways. One way is to buy raffle tickets for the general raffle of over 100 gifts. The odds are lots better than the Lottery. Another way is to buy raffle tickets for the Winonah canoe raffle. Once again the odds are really good. You can also come for the night to visit with friends from up and down the Trail. Volunteers will be serving food and beverages. The money from the food sales also goes to the Fire Department. If you can’t do anything else, send a check to the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department, % Dave Clutter, 60 Voyageurs Point, Grand Marais, MN 55604.

The raspberry crop is starting to look really good. I have been checking at some favorite spots and it won’t be long now. I have my sugar, jars, and Surjell on hand but, most of all, I just want to sit down to eat a bowl of raspberries. You have already heard my story about eating raspberries. All year long I look at those ½ pints boxes (1 cup) of raspberries selling for $3-4 in the grocery store. When Bruce and I eat that first large bowl of homegrown, that is when I know how rich my life is.

The weather has been beautiful, hot, and sunny – true summer weather. We open all our windows at night and close them in the morning. It keeps the house about 10 degrees cooler than outside. One of the reasons for this is because the cold winters demand that our homes be especially well insulated. With a little air management, this helps us keep cool in the summer.

My garden is really starting to produce. Each day I have been able to take a large bag of lettuce down to the lodge for salads. Basil, fennel, chives, parsley and rhubarb also make their way down to the lodge. Bruce, Eva, Lee and I have been enjoying a few things that I don’t grow enough of for the lodge – broccoli, asparagus, strawberries and green peppers.

Well, I have to go out to weed this wonderful garden. That is a never-ending job.

Saturday, July 07, 2007

New additions of all sorts

Hello Again!
When I made the last post, I had not yet seen the Big Black Bear that has been leaving evidence of its midnight roams of the property. The other night, though, I got to see her. Sitting on the dock with a friend in the wee hours of the morning, she came out of the dock house… followed by two cubs. It was a really special thing to see! They walked over to the lodge, babies following their mother, and then all three of them climbed the cedar tree on the back patio. The mom then came down and started to forage for food, which was about the time that we snuck by the lodge and went to bed. I will admit that I was pretty scared—mothers with their cubs can be very aggressive. I wouldn’t suggest walking around alone at night, and if you see Big Momma Black Bear and her cubs, be sure to give them plenty of space- and remember that wild animals are always unpredictable.
There is also a couple other additions the the wildlife that hangs around the lodge-- two families of loons that live on our west end of the lake now have babies: two each. They are sooo cute; just little brown balls of fluff that follow their parents around. The mallards also have babies. One mother duck had nine ducklings that are hanging out on the beach next to the dock.

The other day we did our first run of a new craft activity—the Birch Bark Sampler. It consists of birch bark postcards (which actually go through the mail), birch bark picture frames, and birch bark bookmarks. Everyone who came got really creative. Everything they made was spectacular, and I think everyone had a really good time (as you can tell from the photo).

This second photo shows a group of women from Adventures in Good Company, an organization that gets together adventurous women and organizes vacations for them. I took them out to Magnetic Rock, where we found blueberries already (that was awesome). It is especially interesting to take that hike because it is one of the areas that recently burned in the Ham Lake Fire. You wouldn’t believe how green it is already. You can see that a little from the photo. One thing is for sure: the view of magnetic rock is now much less obstructed.

I’m going to continue taking photos from around the lodge and outfitters, so that everyone who’s not up on the trail can see what’s going on. I also just think that photos can add a lot to posts.

The lodge now has a new patio, and between family reunions and weddings, it’s getting a lot of use. It’s beautiful. While I don’t know what the previous deck/patio looked like, I know that this one is a great outdoor addition so people can sit and gaze at the lake.

It’s strange how living up here in the woods seems to get to you. I am getting more and more used to being surrounded by few buildings and a lot of trees, and having bears and moose as neighbors. While it is nice to spend time in town, Grand Marais is seeming more and more like a Duluth than a tiny tourist town. Slowly, I miss the woods more and more whenever I leave them for town. It’s like the woods are getting inside me and taking over. Even the bugs seem to be biting me less and less. Speaking of bugs--

The bug report: black flies and noseeums seem to be past their peak, but mosquitoes are getting just slightly worse than they were. Still, they’re not too bad. Sitting on the dock at sunset is still pleasant as ever.

Friday, June 29, 2007

Out with Stress

Last night I had a reminder of why I live up here. I spent Wednesday and Thursday in Duluth taking a friend of mine for medical tests and a doctor’s visit. The outcome was that this elderly woman would be facing some shoulder replacement surgery. I spent the 2 hours driving from Duluth to Grand Marais explaining this surgery over and over. By the time I got home about 5:00 p.m., I was beat.

There just enough time at home to change into some old shoes, grab my sweatshirt, and jump into the boat. Bruce and I had been invited to a fish fry on Campers’ Island with a bunch of friends. It could not have happened on a better evening.

The sky was clear and there was very little wind on the water. Our boat seemed to zip along down the lake. The water washed the tension from my back and neck. My mind was cleared by just looking at the passing shoreline.

Approaching the island, we could see the boats of our friends. The fire was already burning. As is usual with this group, the table was groaning with its load of food. Bruce joined Bob as the cooks. Bob took care of the potatoes and baked beans. Bruce did the fish – walleye, bass, and lake trout. Even the smoke smelled wonderful. While the two men cooked, we all snacked on veggies and dip or smoked trout.

When it came time to eat, everyone chowed down. In fact I think every single person went back for seconds. In addition to the food mentioned, we had homemade dinner rolls, pickled home-grown cucumbers, fresh Iowa strawberries, apple salad, and two kinds of homemade cookies. It was a feast that anyone would love to eat.

After dinner, we put some wood on the fire, gathered round in chairs, and just sat talking easily. We could hear the water flowing over Bridal Falls. One boat rocked gently against a rock. The mosquitoes were almost totally absent. A couple loons were calling back and forth.

Melissa and Ken got out their cameras to record the event. That was our most organized activity. Otherwise, ever so often, someone would get up and put a little more wood on the fire. We must have sat there for an hour or more with no one showing any inclination to move.

Only the approach of sunset got us moving. Then everyone pitched in to clean up. A couple 5-gal buckets of water and a stirring stick took care of the fire. Boats were loaded. Chairs folded and put in boats. Food packed up. Garbage accounted for. One last look around the campsite assured us that it was left better than we found it.

It is evenings like this that bring sanity into my life. The stress of the last couple days was gone. I hope that you have a nearby natural area where you can also get a little of the stress out of your life.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

And the Living is Easy

In spite of a rough start with fires, summer is here and the variety of guests in camp show it. The wedding reception on the new patio in front of the lodge seemed to kick the summer season off.

We just finished a large family reunion. They came from all over the country. Each night at 7:00 they gathered for dinner to talk about what they had done during the day and to catch up on each others’ lives. Each family had children who were growing way too fast and the grandparents who were enjoying every moment.

Right after they left, we had a couple check in who were here to plan their family reunion for next summer. These folks have been with us for almost 30 years. Every five years they bring their family together to share some time at Gunflint. Next summer there will be 18 of them. With grandchildren scattering for jobs, it gets more difficult to plan dates that fit everyone.

Sunday another couple who have been with us for years checked in for a week of fishing. One of their friends who used to come with her husband and now comes with a daughter also arrived. They will be out fishing every day with two guides. If past experience is any indication, we will expect to see some wonderful catches of fish.

And speaking of fish, Bruce and I have been enjoying and sharing some fresh walleye. Bruce spent a half day on Northern Light with Dennis Todd, one of our guides. We had fresh walleye for dinner that night. There is no way you can beat eating really fresh fish. Lee and Eva came down for dinner. Being pregnant Eva is limited in how much fish she can eat, so Lee, Bruce and I ate her share plus ours. We really made pigs of ourselves but it was a great way to go.

A couple days later we had visiting friends from Florida. Thirty years ago we used to go up into Canada fishing with them on fly-in lakes. In those days we would have 4-6 adults and 10 children. The kids all learned to drive boats and to fish. They cleaned fish, did dishes and swam in the lake.

Our schedule was really relaxed. In the morning Ron fixed a huge breakfast and we were out fishing by 10:00 a.m. By mid-afternoon we came in with fresh fish. We ate our main mean about 3:00 p.m. Bruce would start by frying up walleye fingers. Sometimes he would fry for an hour. The fish were eaten as fast as he could cook. Then it was time to cook the main food. After everything was cleaned up, the kids would swim and the adults napped or talked. About 6:00 p.m. we would all go out fishing until dark. After coming in it was time to break out sandwiches, soup, canned fruit, hot chocolate, and whatever else anyone wanted. We all slept good at night.

You will notice that there is no mention of the two women, Pat and I, cooking. We were really treated like queens. The men cooked and the kids did everything else. Also notice that everyone went fishing no matter what their gender was. Sometimes the girls had Barbie dolls in the boat but they still spent time fishing. W all look back fondly on those trips. So when Ron and Pat visit we always have to plan a walleye dinner.

I also see that the three naturalists are keeping busy. Canoeing lessons were going on at the dock yesterday. Then they all took a paddle on the lake. Tucker and I saw them pass when he was down swimming. Every week more and more people explore the woods with the three of them.

Bruce and I have spent a little time in the woods ourselves. The wild strawberries are ripe. We picked a bit the other day. They will soon be made into jam for the winter. It looks like both blueberries and raspberries will be abundant this year. In fact abundant might be an understatement.

It is a good thing as there is not one frozen blueberry in our house. I make blueberry jam but what we really like is blueberry pancakes and blueberry pie. Bruce is the pancake maker in our house. He makes them from scratch and includes corn meal, buttermilk, bananas, walnuts and blueberries. It is a great way to start the morning especially when topped with warm maple syrup.

And now just a short commercial for those of you who will be up on the Gunflint Trail on July 18th. That night the annual canoe races will be held here at the lodge. The event is a benefit for the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department. This year we really want to thank the men and women who volunteer their time with the department. During the entire Ham Lake Fire, these folks worked fighting the fire and providing the necessary local knowledge for fire fighters from all over the country. In addition to the canoe races for all ages, food is sold and there are two raffles. One is for over 100 gifts from local stores and residents. The other is for a brand new canoe donated by Winonah Canoe Company. Tickets for a raffles are sold up and down the Trail from now until the event. You don’t have to be present to win. But if you are present, it really is a very fun evening.

Friday, June 22, 2007

Bears Bears Bears...

Hello!
My name is Kate, and I’m a new blogger on the site. I am a summer naturalist here at Gunflint, focusing mostly on kids’ activities and crafts. Though I have only been here about three weeks, there’s been an immense amount of seeing and doing, and I can tell that it applies to more people than just me.
Maybe what stands out the most to me so far is the amount and involvement of wildlife up here. There has been evidence of a bear from the previous night almost every morning, not to mention the fact that the wildlife sighting notebook has something new in it just about every time I look at it, from turtles to moose to eagles to bears. Guests and staff also have a wide variety of stories to tell about a past or recent experience with wildlife. A guest on a wildflower hike this morning mentioned that a few trashcans outside her cabin had been tipped over and pawed around in. And just today I cleaned up trash that a bear had dug through right outside the nature center. I will say that I am really glad that these are black bears and usually easy to scare away, and even gladder that I haven’t had any close encounters with them. In fact, I haven’t even seen one here on the property yet. Though this almost counts…
Just the other day I was putting out hummingbird feeders around the property. I felt kind of silly, because I was standing up on chairs to reach the hooks for the feeders right in front of windows where guests were sitting. The next morning, though, there were paw prints from a bear on his hind legs that very night in the exact same spot that I had been standing. How funny! Luckily none of the feeders were torn down.
There’s been a lot of seeing and doing happening with children, too. This past week I have been privileged enough to work with some really articulate, smart kids. The first ever Bug Safari took place with Matthew, Wyatt, and Stazs the other day, when we went around with nets catching all sorts of spiders, butterflies, moths, grasshoppers, and the like. The kids had a great time exploring the many different kinds of bugs around and learning to look at them and set them free again.
The wilderness seems to be its good old self- unstoppable as far as growth and full of secrets. There are already huge patches of green on the other side of the lake, which was hit hard by the Ham Lake Fire. It seems as though this Minnesota vegetation just can’t be stopped; it is forever on its way in and forever on its way out. Always changing and moving, always with something new to see.
On another note, if I were to give a bug report I would probably say that mosquitoes still aren’t too bad, and the black flies and ticks are still around but waning. No-seeums are rare but intrusive, as well as pine beetles (who knew something with that name would be after people?). If you are on your way up, be sure you bring your bug spray, and also be sure to check out all the new naturalist programs John outlined in his last post. I’m sure I’ll be back with another post soon, but until then I hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Back Again

I am sure that you think I have dropped off the face of the earth. Well, I’m back.

At this time of year Bruce and I are very busy with foreign students coming into the U. S. to work for 4 months on a J-1Visa program. We got started in this business three years ago as a kind of retirement hobby job. The first year we brought in about 25 students from Jamaica. This year we have 250 students from all over the world. While many are working in various resorts in Minnesota, we also have students on ranches in the west and with moving van companies all over the country. Bruce or I meet all the students coming into Minnesota and bring them to their job.

It’s a lot of driving. Last week Bruce met students in Minneapolis on Monday. He overnights and then drops them off on his way home. He drove 800 miles in the two days. On Friday I drove down, picked up students that night, and dropped them off on Saturday. My trip was 780 miles long.

Then on Sunday I drove down to Minneapolis for a Monday morning meeting. This one was a little different. It was a planning meeting with Split Rock Studios who are working with us to build a Chik-Wauk Museum and Nature Center on Saganaga Lake. They are designing the entire project. Hopefully we will then have enough money for them to build and install the entire project. It will make for a super museum.

The museum will cover the natural history of the area and the cultural history of the area. About 1/3 of the exhibits will explain the boreal forest surrounding us. The other 2/3’s will deal with the various population groups who have lived here: prehistoric peoples, Native Americans, voyageurs, miners, loggers, resorters and local residents. It is turning into a very exciting project and much bigger than we expected. If you would like to learn more about this, go the website for the Gunflint Trail Historical Society.

Yesterday Bruce and I spent quite a bit of time driving around the burned spots on the upper Trail. We have out-of-town guests who wanted to see it. Of course, there are lots of burned over areas just down to bare rock. But there are still lots of green, unburned sections. It is hard to figure out why one place burned and another did not. In many places we saw trees that were burned on one side and green on the other. How does this happen? I suspect we are all going to think about this for some time to come.

At the lodge, spring projects are getting finished. Last Saturday, the patio had its first event. It rained Friday night and Sunday night but Saturday was a beautiful evening for an outside wedding reception. I think people are really going to enjoy outdoor eating on the patio.

Ronnie Smith and her helper, Carl, have got most of the gardens in great shape. Now it is just a matter of waiting for the plants to get a little bigger and to burst out into blossom. The evening rains have helped this process along.

Our garden is just about done and we are all starting to enjoy the fruits of our labors. Asparagus, fennel, chives, parsley, basil, and rhubarb have been really good. They all go down to the lodge once a week. Yesterday we ate our first broccoli. Bruce normally isn’t a big broccoli fan but he loves this because it is so tender. We will eat broccoli from now into September. My lettuce is also about ready to start harvesting. This is one of Eva’s favorite products of the garden. By next week it will start to go into the lodge salads. Strawberries are turning red. We don’t have enough of those for the lodge so Bruce, Lee, Eva and I will eat them and make jam.

Yesterday during our drive we stopped at one of Bruce’s wild strawberry stops. We’ll be going back again to pick there. The berries are red and big. Big wild strawberries in this area are about the size of the tip of your little finger. All the picking is done on your knees. The jam from them is wonderful. Of course, you have to be on my A-list to get a jar of it.

Lee and Eva have gone to visit her family for a couple of days. We have Dog Tucker and Cat Diva staying with us. Our visiting friends have Dog Molly with them. Between the three animals getting used to each other, it is a three-ring circus. Diva learned this morning to push the screen door open and get outside. Tucker (5 times her size) would never push a door open with his nose. Molly is busy guarding her food or licking Tucker’s bowl for anything left in it. If you pet one animal, the other two are right there for attention.

Tonight we are going to a potluck at one of the neighbors. Bob and Sharon Baker are leaving with a motor home for three months in Alaska. We are all saying goodbye with a little bit of jealousy. They are one or two reservations but otherwise plan to just roam around. It really sounds like a great trip.

Hopefully, I will get back to writing a little sooner next time. Enjoy these nice summer days.

Monday, June 18, 2007

Naturalist Program Profile

We have an exciting summer planned for the Gunflint Naturalist Program. This year we have three naturalists for the first time. There is Deb from Ohio, Katie from Colorado, and John from Minnesota.

Deb is doing mainly activities for families and adults. She has a lot of experience in a camp setting, and has a BA in Geology from Ohio State.

Katie is our kids and crafts naturalist. She has experience at a canoe camp on Lake of the Woods, and will be a sophomore at Colorado State University in the fall, majoring in English.

I (John) am the Head Naturalist and will be doing activities for people of all ages this summer. This is my sixth year at Gunflint. My BA is from Concordia College in Moorhead, Minnesota, where I majored in English-writing, and Environmental Studies.

We have many new programs planned for this summer. One exciting new activity will be the Saturday Night Sing Along. All three naturalists are at least novice guitar players, and will lead songs as well as tell stories. We will be singing songs that kids and adults will enjoy. It will be the only program of the week where the entire naturalist staff will be present, and will be the grand finale for our week of activities.

This list below is of activities have not been offered in previous summers, but which will be offered on a rotating basis this year:

Birch Bark Bookmarks Craft
Birch Bark Sampler Craft
Northwoods Candle Holders Craft
Northwoods Magnets Craft
Seagull Lake Day Kayak Paddle
Fantastic Fen Hike to Lonely Lake
Geologic Sills of the Caribou Rock Trail Hike
Geology of the High Cliffs Hike
Lady’s Slipper Hike
Medicinal Plants Hike
Medicinal Plants of the Mid-Cliffs Trail Hike
Photography Hike to Lookout Point
Wildfire Ecology Hike to Magnetic Rock
Kid’s Only Amazing Science Experiments
Kid’s Only Bug Safari
Kid’s Only Nature Discovery Hike
Fire and Ice Geology Canoe/Kayak Paddle
Intro to Kayaking (Upon Request)
Wildfire Ecology Pontoon Cruise
Saturday Night Sing Along
Sensational Snakes Presentation
Wildfire Ecology Presentation

Even though we have so many new activities, we are still offering many of the old favorites. They are listed below:

Boat Trip and Hike to Bridal Falls
Boat Trip and Hike to Little Rock Falls
Deep Bog Excursion
Candle Making Craft
Dream Catchers Craft
Northwoods Pencil Holders Craft
Caribou Rock Day Hike
South Rim Trail Hike
Brant Lake Day Canoe Trip
Granite River Day Canoe Trip
Ham Lake Day Canoe Trip
Stairway Portage Day Canoe Trip
Animal Tracking Hike
Aurora Borealis Night Hike
Berry Picking Hike
Celestial Legends Night Hike
Wild Edibles Hike
Kid’s Only Fishing Fun
Kid’s Only Hobo Hike
Kid’s Only Make a Boat and Race it Down the River
Kid’s Only Pizza and a Movie
Kid’s Only Scavenger Hunt
Kid’s Only Story Time
Kid’s Only Supper and a Story
Beaver Canoe Paddle
Cross River Adventure Canoe Paddle
Loon Canoe/Kayak Paddle
Intro to Canoeing (Upon Request)
Dessert Cruise
Early Morning Pontoon Cruise
History Cruise
Photography Cruise
Snack Cruise
Great Lakes Ghost Stories Presentation
Gunflint Lodge History Presentation
Life of a Voyageur Presentation
Minnesota Ghost Stories Presentation
Misunderstood Wildlife Presentation
Shipwrecks of the Great Lakes Presentation
Gunflint History Tour

All Gunflint Lodge/Gunflint Northwoods Outfitters Guests are invited to participate in the many activities we are offering. There will be between three and seven activities offered each day throughout the summer.

If you join in on our activities, we guarantee that your northwoods experience at Gunflint Lodge will be greatly enhanced. With your new found knowledge, you will have a greater understanding of the northland than you have ever had before.

John Silliman
Head Naturalist
Gunflint Lodge

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Viewing the Fire

Yesterday Bruce and I took a walk part way in on the Magnetic Rock Trail. Our purpose was to see if any morel mushrooms were out in the burn area. Unfortunately, we were not successful.

The trail, however, offers an amazing view of the Ham Lake fire. You can certainly see lots of the fire by driving up and down the Trail. To really get a feel for what a fire does and how things regenerate, it is necessary to get out of your car and walk into the woods. Magnetic Rock offers a great trail that gives you lots of exposure to various parts of a fire.

First, here’s a little background. The Magnetic Rock Trail is about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4’s long one way. Generally speaking it is a gentle uphill all the way in. It terminates at a large rectangular rock set on end. The rock is about 30-40 feet tall. It you have a light magnet with you, it will stick to the rock in some places. Hence, the name of the rock. It is possible to walk from the rock to the Gunflint Narrows Road but I suggest you only do that with someone who knows the trail. Your best bet is to come out the same way you came in.

Once you go over the creek, you enter a bedrock ledge. This area was burned back in 1976. Then after the Blowdown of 1999, it was burned again as part of the cleanup. Now it has been burned one more time. We did not walk in far enough to know how close the burn gets to Magnetic Rock.

Almost immediately upon leaving the parking lot, you come into burned over areas. It is spotty with some patches of green remaining. I am amazed at where green patches are found. Before you get to the pond, there is a little strip of trail that is lined with flowering bunchberries about a foot wide on each side. Once you get past fringe, the area on both sides of the trail is black. How did that little strip escape the fire?

The green coming up is already unbelieveable. There are ferns in the burned area that are 18-24 inches tall. Labrador Tea, Bunchberries, Clintonia (Blue-bead Lily), and Star Flowers are well represented. I saw two tiny reddish leaves coming up in lots of places. They may be Wintergreen. There was also one green plant that I believe was Wild Ginger but don’t quote me on it. This plant was everywhere.

Perhaps the most striking flower I saw was a Wood Lily. We found it in a little 10 x 10 foot area that had been surrounded by fire but not burned black itself. The flower was on a rocky area with little soil. All of a sudden this orange flower hits your eye. I saw one other in bloom and two more with unopened buds on them. Probably there were lots more but I didn’t go wandering around much off the trail.

Another surprising find were blueberry bushes with green berries on them already. This is really early to see the green berries. With all the rain we have had, a couple weeks of sunshine will give us a wonderful blueberry crop. Last year the blueberries were terrible so I am ready for a bumper year of berries.

So try to plan a hike up the Magnetic Rock Trail for a closer view of the fire and re-growth. For those who just drive up for the hike, my commercial sense forces me to tell you that the Red Paddle Bistro at Gunflint is a great place to stop for lunch. By June 17th, we will not only have regular dining inside, but the new outside patio will be available for meals overlooking the lake.

Meanwhile, on another note I finally got to reading a little about our red fox and their marriage habits. Apparently a male and female will join together for the mating and early raising of their brood. The young fox stay with their parents until early September. At that point the entire family separates. So we will watch to see what happens to our family. The kits have already been moved from right by the lodge to some spot across the road. We have also learned that there is another fox family down on the Mile O’Pines Road.

Finally, we had some readers stop at the lodge who wanted to see the garden and Tucker. The front desk gave them directions and shortly after we had a car drive in and out. The garden doesn’t look like much because we are still weeks behind in our work. But the point is, stop in and say hello. Bruce and I are always happy to spend some time with visitors. In spite of his barking at strangers, even Tucker loves visitors.

Thursday, June 07, 2007

It's Been A While

Times flies when you are having fun like we do at Gunflint so I am a little late on this blog. I could try to justify myself by listing what I have accomplished this past week but it is not that exciting. Let me just say that not much has changed in the Gunflint neighborhood this week.

Now that the fires are out, we have received quite a bit of rain. As usual this is a mixed blessing. The ground is now thoroughly soaked. The pine trees planted over Memorial Day weekend have gotten a great start in their new locations. The lake level has risen and will continue to do so. We may even get the fire ban lifted which would be nice for canoeists.

However, the only thing that is growing well in my garden is the weeds. I have even taken to weeding in the rain just to get the job done. The patio project has slowed to a crawl. The slate that is in looks wonderful but there are still lots of rocks to be put down. Even though I know we need rain, I do get tired of gray days.

The animals seem to be doing well. Mother Fox has moved her young from the crawl space under Justine’s house to a new location. No one has seen them for over a week. Mother and Dad are still appearing at our house for handouts each day. Bruce’s latest gifts are some minnows he froze for the ice fishing he never got to. I have been giving them last year’s partridge over Bruce’s objections.

The cabin remodeling is really coming along. Today Bruce expects to have everything but the slate on the top of the hearth finished on his last fireplace. He can’t wait to get that project off his back. Five new fireplaces went into cabins this year. I am sure that Lee will find some more places for fireplaces this fall.

Reservations are coming in steadily for the summer and fall months. We have some extra pressure because there are lots of crews around working on the repair of telephone lines from the fire. Accommodations at this time of year are tough for them to find.

People up at the Seagull/Saganaga area still do not have phone service and may not have it until mid-July. A shared line has been activated into the fire station on Seagull Lake but that isn’t much.

Special thanks should be given to Verizon for setting up emergency cell phone service on the Trail. Their engineers were up quickly to survey our terrain which is terrible for cell phones. They added some stuff (that’s a technical term I won’t explain to laymen) to the top of the Gunflint Lake tower. Then they put up another tower on Saganaga where Frank and Patsy Shunn’s home used to be – it was burned. I have been at Shunn’s and know that from that location you can see the high cliffs behind Gunflint. Mom and Patsy used to talk to each other by CB radio. This service does not absolutely reach everyone but it is a great improvement.

Now the question arises as to whether this should become a permanent service. There are pros and cons to it. The Gunflint Trail community has always prided itself on being set aside from many of the intrusions of modern life including cell phones. Not everyone visiting this area agrees with that point of view. Cabin owners may wish to be able to use their cell phones from home rather than paying for a land line phone they only use during several weeks in the summer. Some guests just can’t live without their cell phones.

Even those of us who live here would like cell phone service sometimes. Years ago I took Robert and Lee into the swimming pool in Grand Marais for pre-school swimming lessons. These lessons were held at night during the winter months. Often Bruce was gone to sports shows and there was no one at home. I never had any trouble on the road or with the car but it could have been interesting if I did. There is the no man’s land between the Trout Lake road and the Bearskin road. It would have been nice to know that I was only a phone call away from help.

Then we have to talk about the BWCAW. Do we want people talking on cell phones while on a wilderness canoe trip? Does it become a matter of public safety? No matter what kind of cell service we get, there will be blanks in the reception. What happens to the person who really needs help but is in a blank spot? There are no easy answers to these questions.

Cleanup of debris from burned homes is now in full swing. The county had to set up a special area complete with all the necessary permits to receive the debris. The Forest Service has reopened areas for homeowners to deposit vegetation that they clear from around homes. We are all getting another lesson in what defensible space around a home means during a fire.

Finally and most importantly, I have been given permission to make an announcement for Lee and Eva. The end of September they are expecting their first child. As you might expect, we are all thrilled. I am sure that this new grandson will be as perfect as our other six grandchildren are.